Baker Roxana Jullapat does some of her best work when the rest of the city is still fast asleep<\/p>\n
Published Jun 19, 2026<\/p>\n
Last updated 4\u00a0days ago<\/span><\/p>\n 9 minute read<\/p>\n <\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<\/div>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS<\/p>\n Enjoy the latest local, national and international news.<\/p>\n SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE ARTICLES<\/p>\n Enjoy the latest local, national and international news.<\/p>\n REGISTER \/ SIGN IN TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES<\/p>\n Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience.<\/p>\n THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK.<\/p>\n Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience.<\/p>\n <\/span>or<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Jump to the recipes:<\/strong> banana-date muffins<\/a>, brunch red pepper and goat cheese scones<\/a>, and tortillas ali\u00f1adas<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n The early morning hours, well before most people have flung off the covers, are when Roxana Jullapat shines. The head baker and co-owner of Los Angeles\u2019 Friends & Family<\/a> usually rises by 2 a.m. and unlocks the bakery at 3 a.m. By 6:30 a.m., the pastry case is full of whole-grain muffins, cookies, breads, danishes and croissants. Even on the busiest days, the team takes a moment to appreciate the colourful array before the first customers walk through the door.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cThe fact that you\u2019re staring at the fruit of your labour, quite literally, is very powerful feedback, conscious and subconscious,\u201d says Jullapat. \u201cThe day could have all kinds of things \u2014 deliveries that didn\u2019t come in, equipment that didn\u2019t work, people that come in late \u2014 but no one can take away that case you put together.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n The routines and recipes that fill the pastry case provided the basis for Jullapat\u2019s second book, Morning Baker. She wrote it in the same spirit as the toolkit she offers apprentices at Friends & Family, with one notable difference: the batches are in the tens rather than the hundreds.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n She recalls a friend expressing shock that she opened the book with muffins. \u201cI\u2019m like, \u2018What else would you start with?\u2019 It\u2019s the simplest bake, the most executable,\u201d says Jullapat. \u201cIt\u2019s real science, and it\u2019s such a foundational technique \u2014 for baking and cooking.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Advanced bakers might go straight to the chapter on whole-grain croissants or the \u201cmini-book\u201d on bread \u2014 including flatbreads, yeasted and sourdough loaves. Yet, Jullapat says that many are starting at the beginning, with the muffins. \u201cSecretly, I\u2019m so glad, because I feel like muffins were losing ground. We were starting to not appreciate them. There are bakeries that flat-out don\u2019t make them, not a single one.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Nine years ago, Jullapat and her partner, chef Dan Mattern, left careers in fine dining to open Friends & Family. In nearly a decade, Jullapat says she\u2019s met many incredible bakers and noticed common characteristics.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cThey find this Zen in their morning routines and their activities, and I\u2019m constantly in awe of their ways of embracing the morning. Everybody does it a little bit differently, but a little bit similarly. And I feel like anybody who really gets into it becomes a better person in some way. Like, they become a little bit more patient or a little bit more methodical,\u201d says Jullapat. \u201cI\u2019ve seen people blossom in a very sweet way, just by becoming morning bakers.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Now 51, Jullapat sees a connection between writing cookbooks and her work as a translator in her twenties. The lingo, big batch sizes, high-calibre equipment and flour of professional kitchens all need to be translated for home bakers. After making 70 biscuits three times a week, for instance, professionals gain an understanding that home bakers may not.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cYou\u2019re going to really become one with that biscuit. To have all that and be able to channel it into one experience that takes about an hour or two, that is a single recipe, that is the mission. That is the journey of writing a cookbook. It\u2019s a nice way to realize all that you know and all that you\u2019ve learned.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n Article content<\/p>\n As with her 2021 debut, Mother Grains<\/a>, and the bakery, Morning Baker is \u201cgrain-centric.\u201d Many of the recipes are made solely with whole-grain flour, which includes all elements of the kernel, including the fibre-rich bran. Others are hybrid, calling for refined all-purpose or bread flour \u201cto ensure the recipe\u2019s success.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Jullapat notes that some of the most important people she knows in whole-grain baking are in Canada: Tommy Aird of Tommy\u2019s Whole Grain Bakery<\/a> in Vancouver, and Dawn Woodward of Evelyn\u2019s Crackers<\/a> in Toronto. \u201cTwo incredible whole-grain bakers, super-committed.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n In Mother Grains, Jullapat devoted chapters to barley, buckwheat<\/a>, corn<\/a>, oats, rice, rye, sorghum and wheat<\/a>, with specific uses for each. She considers Morning Baker more of an \u201call-in\u201d endeavour. \u201cThis is a book for a person who has gone through a period of dabbling in whole grains,\u201d says Jullapat. \u201cNow we\u2019re going to throw the rule book out the window and mix and match and have a blast.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Makes:<\/strong> 12 muffins<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Equipment:<\/strong> muffin tin<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 13 raw walnut halves Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Place an oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 350F (175C).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Scatter the walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until a nut cut in half is golden inside. Let cool completely.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Increase the oven temperature to 375F (190C).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt into a mixing bowl. Using your hands, make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, egg, egg yolk, buttermilk, oil and mashed banana. Pour the liquid mixture into the well in the dry ingredients and whisk slowly from the centre out to draw the dry ingredients into the liquids. Then whisk vigorously to ensure the batter is well combined. Add the dates and stir to combine.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Coat a muffin tin lightly with nonstick spray.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Evenly distribute the muffin batter, filling each cup almost to the top. Top each muffin with a walnut half. Bake for 12 minutes. Then rotate the tin and bake for 10 to 12 minutes more, or until the muffins turn golden brown and a skewer inserted in the centre of a muffin comes out clean.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Let the muffins sit until cool enough to handle. Carefully release the muffins from the tin, running an offset spatula or a paring knife along the edges if necessary. Serve at room temperature. The muffins will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Note:<\/strong> Find Red Fife, Canada\u2019s oldest wheat, at artisanal and craft flour mills<\/a> across the country (such as 1847 Stone Milling<\/a> in Ontario and True Grain<\/a> in B.C.), bakeries, some grocery stores and online.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Makes:<\/strong> 15 scones<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Equipment:<\/strong> 2-\u00adinch (5 cm) round biscuit cutter<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 1 cup (130 g) whole-\u00adgrain all-\u00adpurpose wheat flour, such as Sonora or Frederick, plus extra for dusting Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Place an oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 400F (205C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Combine the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and smoked paprika in a mixing bowl. Add the butter cubes and toss to combine. Quickly cut the butter into the dry ingredients by pinching the butter with your fingertips \u2014 \u00adimagine you\u2019re snapping your fingers \u2014 \u00aduntil the mixture resembles a coarse meal with butter pieces the size of cornflakes. Add the peppers, goat cheese and parsley and toss to combine.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Using your hands, make a well in the centre of the mixture. Pour the buttermilk into the well and toss with both hands (as if tossing a salad) until a rough dough is formed.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. Using a rolling pin, flatten into a rough rectangle that\u2019s about 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall. Using a 2-\u00adinch (5-cm) biscuit cutter, cut as many scones as possible, gather the scraps, knead back into a dough, flatten once again, and cut a few more scones. Repeat this process until you have no dough left; you should end up with 15 scones.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Transfer the scones to the prepared baking sheet, placing them 1\/2 inch (1.25 cm) apart \u2014 close enough so they will touch as they expand in the oven. Brush with the beaten egg.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Bake for 12 minutes. Then rotate the baking sheet and bake for another 10 to 12 minutes, until the tops of the scones are golden. These scones are delicious while still warm, but you can also serve them at room temperature.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Makes:<\/strong> eight 6-\u00adinch (15 cm) tortillas<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Equipment:<\/strong> tortilla press; comal, cast-\u00adiron pan or electric griddle<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 2 cups (250 g) masa harina Article content<\/p>\n For serving:<\/strong> Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Cut sixteen 8-\u00adinch (20-cm) squares of parchment paper.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n In a mixing bowl, combine the masa harina and salt. Using your hands, make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients. Pour the water into the well and mix by hand until a uniform dough forms. Add the cheeses, sour cream and butter and continue mixing by hand until well incorporated.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Cover and let it rest for 20 minutes to allow the masa to hydrate.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Divide the masa into 8 equal portions (about 100 g\/3 1\/2 oz each). Shape each portion into a ball.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Line a tortilla press with a parchment square, place a ball of masa in the centre, top with another parchment square, and flatten with the press into a tortilla about 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. Keep the tortilla between the parchment squares. Repeat with the remaining masa balls.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/morningBakerFeat.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&h=216&sig=dG9fj0cW5k4wEVHIZ5P8tQ\")
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Recipes Sign In or Create an Account<\/h2>\n
![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/morningBakerCoverInline.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&sig=BbgXp5Jasv-GTkEIC-wtnw\")
<\/picture>BANANA-DATE MUFFINS<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/bananaDateMuffinsInline.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&sig=opBATbPAHQJkVnMrAnSHhA\")
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1 1\/4 cups (165 g) whole-\u00adgrain hard red wheat flour, such as Turkey Red or Red Fife (see note)
1 tsp baking powder
3\/4 tsp baking soda
1\/2 tsp kosher salt
2\/3 cup packed (150 g) dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
3\/4 cup (180 mL) buttermilk
1\/3 cup (80 mL) vegetable oil
1 cup (215 g) mashed ripe banana (about 2 medium bananas)
5 Medjool dates, pitted and cut into 1\/4-\u00adinch (6-mm) pieces<\/p>\n<\/section>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 4<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 5<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 6<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 7<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
BRUNCH RED PEPPER AND GOAT CHEESE SCONES<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/redPepperAndGoatCheeseSconesInline.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&sig=x6vRX790HephLTT8OQNSiQ\")
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1 cup (130 g) whole-\u00adgrain spelt flour
1 tbsp sugar
1 1\/2 tsp baking powder
3\/4 tsp baking soda
1 1\/2 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp smoked paprika
1\/2 cup (112 g\/1 stick\/4 oz) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1\/2-\u00adinch (1.25-cm) cubes
1\/2 cup (120 g) diced roasted red peppers, such as piquillo peppers
1 cup (130 g) crumbled fresh goat cheese
1 tbsp minced fresh flat-\u00adleaf parsley
3\/4 cup (180 mL) buttermilk
1 large egg, beaten<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 4<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 5<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 6<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
TORTILLAS ALI\u00d1ADAS<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/06\/tortillasAlinadasInline.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&sig=_8cJCZfMwsaCoyFcQ1JoWw\")
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1 1\/4 to 1 1\/2 cups (295 to 355 mL) water at 90F (32C)
1 tsp fine sea salt
1\/2 cup (50 g) grated cotija
1\/2 cup (30 g) shredded mozzarella
1\/3 cup (75 g) sour cream, plus extra for serving
1\/4 cup (55 g\/1\/2 stick\/2 oz) unsalted butter at room temperature
Vegetable oil as needed to cook the tortillas<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Sour cream, avocado slices, refried beans and\/or pickled vegetables<\/p>\n<\/section>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 4<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 5<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 6<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n