\u00d6zlem Warren shines a light on the culinary culture of one of the world’s great food cities<\/p>\n
Published Jun 12, 2026<\/p>\n
Last updated 2\u00a0days ago<\/span><\/p>\n 8 minute read<\/p>\n <\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<\/div>\n Article content<\/p>\n Our cookbook of the week is Istanbul<\/a> by \u00d6zlem Warren.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS<\/p>\n Enjoy the latest local, national and international news.<\/p>\n SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE ARTICLES<\/p>\n Enjoy the latest local, national and international news.<\/p>\n REGISTER \/ SIGN IN TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES<\/p>\n Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience.<\/p>\n THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK.<\/p>\n Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience.<\/p>\n <\/span>or<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Jump to the recipes:<\/strong> scrambled eggs with tomatoes, peppers and onions (menemen<\/a>), cheat\u2019s manti<\/a> and saut\u00e9ed chili peppers with garlicky yogurt (atom<\/a>).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u00d6zlem Warren<\/a> brings a local\u2019s eye to one of the world\u2019s great food cities in Istanbul (Quadrille, 2026). \u201cIt was always in my heart to do it justice and bring a perspective of somebody from the land, somebody who actually lived in the land, and, in a way, really honour and celebrate the diversity of the food culture there,\u201d the Gourmand Award-winning author and cooking teacher says of her third cookbook.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Now living in England, Warren was born and raised in Turkey and lived in Istanbul for more than 15 years. \u201cIt\u2019s an incredible city, and I think it deserves to be on the world map, to be celebrated, to be known better,\u201d she adds.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Superficially, outsiders may associate kebabs or d\u00f6ner with the food of the city. In the book, Warren brings light to its depth. She recalls a conversation with author Caroline Eden<\/a>, who writes about Turkey, the Baltics, the Caucasus and Central Asia. Eden referred to Istanbul as \u201cthe world\u2019s kitchen,\u201d which Warren wholeheartedly agrees with.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cIt\u2019s the \u2018Queen of Cities,\u2019 of course, but the rich variety of food on offer, that blend, is what makes it so unique. The fact that you could have such a wide variety of stuff all in one location, within the same neighbourhood at times,\u201d says Warren. \u201cYou\u2019ve got to go and really dig deep and go a little bit down the back streets to really appreciate and enjoy it.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Take the Galata district, which is home to bakeries that Warren says she could spend all day in. \u201cThat feeds my soul.\u201d The immense variety of b\u00f6rek, pide and other wonderful savoury and sweet breads and pastries is an integral part of Istanbul\u2019s food mosaic.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n For Warren, researching and writing the book brought back happy memories of her childhood and high school years in Levent in Istanbul\u2019s Be\u015fikta\u015f district, the city\u2019s pazar (farmers\u2019 markets) and family gatherings. It also made her see Istanbul with fresh eyes. The Bosphorus has long been the city\u2019s lifeline, and the Ottomans, nomadic Turkish tribes and Venetians all walked the same ground she does today.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cJust imagine all those bostan (historic market gardens) and the fruit markets everywhere, and the tulips. And it\u2019s really reinforced and brought so many memories, as well as much admiration and just how privileged we are, really, to be in this land, to look after it. What an honour to at least be able to highlight as much as I could.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Istanbul\u2019s love of fruit and vegetables is reflected in the book\u2019s recipes: 56 of the 82 are vegetarian. The pazar, the \u201cbeating heart\u201d of their neighbourhoods, are among Warren\u2019s favourite places to visit in the city. She dedicates chapters to the farmers\u2019 markets and some of Istanbul\u2019s other food places, including the f\u0131r\u0131n (bakery) and esnaf lokantas\u0131 (tradesman restaurants).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n Article content<\/p>\n \u201cDepending on where you eat in Istanbul, you will be offered a variety of different foods. It could be manti<\/a> (dumpling) nodding to the Central Asian, Turkish nomadic roots, or it could be some lovely meze in a taverna, or meyhane, which would highlight a lot of multicultural, multi-religious communities,\u201d says Warren.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Then there\u2019s street food, ranging from simit and a\u00e7ma (a fluffy soft bun) to g\u00f6zleme and lokma (fried dough balls drenched in syrup). \u201cThere is so much variety, and I suppose it\u2019s the blending of these different traditions that makes Istanbul food so exciting, so interesting.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n So\u011fanl\u0131 Menemen<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Serves:<\/strong> 2<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 3 tbsp olive oil Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Pour the olive oil into a wide non-stick pan and place over a medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and saut\u00e9 for 5 minutes. Add the peppers and cook for a further 3 minutes, stirring often; they will soften and start to char around the edges. Stir in the tomatoes, season with salt and black pepper and cook for a further 3 minutes, continuing to stir often, until the tomatoes are beginning to turn jammy, and the sauce has thickened.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Reduce the heat to medium. Crack the eggs into the pan and swirl them into the sauce. Cook for about 2 minutes, or until the whites are set and the yolks are still a little runny. Try not to overcook the dish \u2014 you want to retain some sauce in which to dip your bread. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed. Sprinkle over the parsley, some pul biber and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Serve immediately, with flatbreads or t\u0131rnakl\u0131 pide ekmek<\/a> (finger-dented flatbreads) on the side. You can also crumble some beyaz peynir or feta over the top, if you wish.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Note:<\/strong> Find pul biber, also known as Aleppo pepper, at Turkish and Middle Eastern grocers, some supermarkets and online<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Yo\u011furtlu, K\u0131ymal\u0131 Makarna<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Serves:<\/strong> 4-5<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 3 tbsp olive oil Article content<\/p>\n For the garlic yogurt:<\/strong> Article content<\/p>\n For the spiced oil:<\/strong> Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n About 40 minutes before you plan to serve, take the yogurt out of the refrigerator and place in a bowl. Stir the garlic into the yogurt, then taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed. Cover and set aside to bring to room temperature.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Pour the 3 tablespoons olive oil into a wide heavy pan and place over a medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and saut\u00e9 for 5 minutes, then stir in the carrots and peppers and saut\u00e9 for a further 2-3 minutes. Add the minced meat and garlic and saut\u00e9 for 4-5 minutes until the meat is browned, stirring continuously.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Add the tomato paste, chopped tomatoes and water, swirling a little of the water in the can to get any remaining bits of tomato. Season with cumin, salt and black pepper, stir to combine and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally. The sauce will have thickened; check the seasoning and add more salt or black pepper, if needed. Stir in the parsley and turn off the heat.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n About 10 minutes before the meat sauce will have finished cooking, bring a pan of salted water to the boil, then add the pasta and cook according to the packet instructions. Drain the pasta then return it to the pan and drizzle over a little olive oil, so the pasta doesn\u2019t stick.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Pour the 4 tablespoons of olive oil into a pan, place over a low-medium heat, stir in the pul biber and dried mint and gently infuse for 35-40 seconds.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Distribute the pasta amongst your serving bowls. Ladle over 3-4 serving spoonfuls of the meat sauce then scatter over dollops of garlic yogurt. Drizzle over some spiced olive oil and serve immediately.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Atom<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Serves:<\/strong> 4<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n 280 g (10 oz) s\u00fczme (strained) yogurt (see note) Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Take the strained yogurt out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before using, to bring it to room temperature. Place the chilies in a small bowl, cover with hot water, then with plastic wrap and allow the chilies to rehydrate for 15 minutes.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Grate the garlic over a chopping board and very finely chop the parts that remain on the chunky side. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and, using the flat side of a knife, gently squash into a fine paste. Spoon the strained yogurt onto a serving dish, add the garlic, and stir to combine well, then season to taste. Swirl the centre of the yogurt with a spoon to create a hollow.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Drain the chilies and pat dry with paper towel. Remove the stalks and cut into strips about 2 cm (3\/4 in) in length. Heat the olive oil in a small pan, stir in the chilies and saut\u00e9 them over a medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Stir in the butter, reduce the heat to medium, and once melted, stir in the pul biber (if using). Saut\u00e9 the chilies for a further 30-40 seconds, stirring constantly, then spoon them, along with the infused oil, into the hollow in the yogurt.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Serve immediately with flatbreads or balon ekmek<\/a> (easy flatbreads).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Note: <\/strong>Labneh (strained yogurt) is the best option, homemade<\/a> or store-bought. You can also use a thick, Greek-style, whole-milk yogurt (the thicker the better).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Article content<\/p>\n Enjoy Atom as part of a meze spread or with grills, such as tavuk \u015fi\u015f<\/a> (chicken shish kebabs with roasted vegetables).<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Recipes and images excerpted from Istanbul<\/a> by \u00d6zlem Warren (Quadrille, May 2026, $60). Photography \u00a9Sam A Harris.<\/p>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n Our website is the place for the latest breaking news, exclusive scoops, longreads and provocative commentary. Please bookmark nationalpost.com<\/a> and sign up for our cookbook and recipe newsletter, Cook This, here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n Article content<\/p>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/istanbulFeat1.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&h=216&sig=nqJwf9X3tjA4_Bo95PaQjg\")
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Recipes Sign In or Create an Account<\/h2>\n
![\"recipes](\"https:\/\/smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital\/nationalpost\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/istanbulCoverInline.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&sig=WKK_LxnPb8A5ddT0m0sDxg\")
<\/picture>SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES, PEPPERS AND ONIONS<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
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1 medium onion, finely chopped
85 g (3 oz) sivri biber (green pointy peppers) or padron peppers, deseeded and finely chopped
400 g (14 oz) ripe, medium tomatoes, finely chopped
2 medium eggs
Handful of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped, to serve
Pinch pul biber, to serve (see note)
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
27 g (1 oz) beyaz peynir or feta, drained and crumbled (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste<\/p>\n<\/section>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
CHEAT\u2019S MANTI<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
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1 medium onion, finely diced
1 small carrot, finely diced
2 sivri biber or 1 medium green (bell) pepper, deseeded and finely diced
450 g (1 lb) ground beef or lamb
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
200 g (7 oz) can chopped tomatoes
200 mL (7 fl oz) water
1 tsp ground cumin
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
400 g (14 oz) dried conchiglie or pasta of your choice (use gluten-free, if preferred)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
400 g (14 oz) full fat Turkish or Greek yogurt
2-3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt and finely chopped<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp pul biber
2 tsp dried mint<\/p>\n<\/section>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 4<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 5<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 6<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
SAUT\u00c9ED CHILI PEPPERS WITH GARLICKY YOGURT<\/h2>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
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1 medium garlic clove
15 g (1\/2 oz) dried red chilies
2 tbsp olive oil
15 g (1 tbsp) salted butter
1\/2 tsp pul biber (optional)
Sea salt, to taste
Flatbreads, to serve<\/p>\n<\/section>\nStep 1<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 2<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 3<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
Step 4<\/h3>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n
SERVING SUGGESTION<\/h4>\n<\/p>\n<\/section>\n