Classic Chianti Classico From Ricasoli In Gaiole In Chianti

Chianti Classico is arguably the world’s best-loved red wine; there are several reasons including reasonable pricing – which makes it available in many countries around the world – as well as a luminous history of more than three centuries. Perhaps the best reason of all is the quality of the wines from the appellation; consumers whether beginners or those who have been tasting wines for decades admire these wines. And they’re delicious!

One thing about Chianti Classico is that name recognition is so strong that much of it is sold simply on that name. Of course, there are several famous producers that have consistently made excellent versions, and in doing so, made a name for themselves for restaurant and retail selections.

However, there are so many intricacies to the wines of Chianti Classico, with much of that having to do with local terroir – where the grapes are grown. This is a large territory, and if one tastes enough wines from the appellation, one will notice a difference in styles based on site. For example, the wines from Panzano tend to be quite rich, sometimes with substantial tannins, meaning the wines tend to be at peak several years (anywhere from seven to twelve) after the vintage.

Meanwhile, the offerings from Castellina in Chianti, further south and west of Panzano is home to a more refined style of Chianti Classico, with very good acidity and appealing elegance. Of course, producers themselves can decide on their approach in the cellar, so not every Chianti Classico from Castellina is subdued, just as every example from Panzano is not powerful. But in reality, the differences from one commune to another are there, and while sometimes slight, they do exist.

A few years ago, a system that defined the boundaries of the communes that make up Chianti Classico, was inaugurated. Known as UGA (Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive, roughly translated as Additional Geographical Units), this is a structured plan to help delineate the geography of Chianti Classico, and how the wines vary from one commune to another. There are currently 11 UGA including Greve, San Casciano and Lamole, along with Panzano and Castellina in Chianti as mentioned above.

Today, I am focusing on one UGA, that of Gaiole in Chianti, located in the southeastern sector of the Chianti Classico zone. One of the largest communes in the appellation, it is home to some of the most famous and successful Chianti Classico estates, such as Riecine, Castello di Ama, Castello di Meleto, Geografico and Badia a Coltbuono, this last one of the most traditional estates in the appellation.

For this article, I will highlight two outstanding properties in Gaiole in Chianti that are owned by relatives of the Ricasoli family: Rocca di Montegrossi, managed by Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi and his cousin Francesco Ricasoli of Ricasoli 1141 (aka Castello di Brolio, where the iconic castello is situated). There is a third cousin named Giovanni Ricasoli Firidolfi in Gaiole; his winery is Castelli di Cacchiano, but as I did not taste his latest releases, I am not including him in this article.

At Rocca di Montegrossi, located in the frazione (hamlet) of Monti, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi has assembled an impressive portfolio of wines, from a charming and instantly appealing Chianti Classico annata to a Gran Selezione (a category that designates the finest Chianti Classico from the estate) to one of the most remarkable examples of Vin Santo, the legendary sweet wine of this area.

Here are my notes on several of his latest releases:

Rocca di Montegrossi

Chianti Classico 2022 – A blend of 93% Sangiovese, 2% Canaiolo and 5% Colorino. Aromas of morel cherry, strawberry preserves and a hint of licorice. Medium-full, with very good acidity and very fine tannins, this displays beautiful Chianti Classico typicity and is a lovely, lovely wine that emphasizes elegance and youthful drinkability. Quite delicious, enjoy this over the next 5-8 years. Excellent value. (93)

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Marcellino 2019 – A blend of 87% Sangiovese, 13% Pugnitello. Aromas of morel cherry, fig and a hint of raisin. Medium-full there are pleasing tannins and sweet fruit, backed by very good acidity and excellent persistence. The wood notes are restrained and there is significant persistence. Rich and layered, this needs some time to settle down; peak in 12-18 years. (94)

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2014 – If I have to select one example of Vin Santo from Chianti Classico that consistently displays the highest quality, the Rocca di Montegrossi is it; I rated the 2011 vintage with a perfect score of 100. Medium-deep amber; enchanting aromas of caramel, honey, apricot and orange pekoe tea with a delicate balsamic note. Medium-full with very good acidity, this offers outstanding typicity, notable harmony, and a lengthy finish. This 2014 is a bit lighter than some vintages, but it is beautifully styled. Peak in 12-18 years. (93)

At Ricasoli 1141, Francesco Ricasoli is the president of the estate, and carries on the work of his ancestors, including Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the individual who is credited with creating the “recipe” for the Chianti Classico blend in the 19th century. Over the past thirty years, Francesco Ricasoli has overhauled his portfolio of wines, and while there are still very good examples of Chianti Classico annata and riserva (under the label Brolio), the shining stars of his lineup are the versions of Gran Selezione. There are four, each 100% Sangiovese, from estate vineyards (this is one of the largest Chianti Classico estates): three of them single vineyard wines, and one, labeled as Castello di Brolio, a blend of the best lots of Sangiovese from the property. With these wines, the Ricasoli 1141 estate has become one of most celebrated Chianti Classico estates today. These four wines are stellar examples of how complex and long-lived Chianti Classico can be; if you are a lover of this appellation, you owe it to yourself to taste these Ricasoli Gran Selezione wines soon. (Incidentally, the 1141 in the name refers to the fact that wine has been produced at this estate every year since 1141, making of the longest continuous wine producer in the world!)

Here are my notes on several of the latest releases from Ricasoli 1141:

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio 2021 – 100% Sangiovese blended from the finest estate lots; matured for 22 months in tonneaux of 500 liters; 30% new, 70% second passage. Beautiful bright garnet; aromas of strawberry, morel cherry, crysanthemum, red currant and red poppy. Medium-full with sweet tannins, very good complexity, excellent persistence, very good acidity. Lovely harmony and notable typicity. A classic wine from this classic Tuscan producer. Peak in 10-15 years. (92)

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colledilà 2021 – 100% Sangiovese from the eponymous vineyard; matured for 22 months in 500-liter tonneaux; 30% new, 70% second passage. Aromas of morel cherry, strawberry preserves, friuts of the forest, plum and red poppy. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Bright, high-tome fruit; very good acidity, excellent complexity and typicity. The oak notes are very well-integrated, while the medium-full tannins are beautifully balanced. Gorgeous wine with wonderful sense of place. Peak in 12-15 years. (95)

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Roncicone 2021 – 100% Sangiovese from the eponymous vineyard; matured for 22 months in 500-liter tonneaux; 30% new, 70% second passage. Aromas of morel cherry, prune and black orchid. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Medium-full tannins, very good acidity, excellent complexity, lovely harmony. The oak notes are a bit evident, but not overwhelming. Excellent typicity. Peak in 12-15 years. (93)

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ceni Primo 2021 – 100% Sangiovese from the eponymous vineyard; matured for 22 months in 500-liter tonneaux; 30% new, 70% second passage. Aromas of morel cherry, fig and hints of brown sugar and caramel. Medium-full with very good acidity, notable persistence and nicely balanced, medium-full tannins that are firm, but round. Great sense of terroir here, with a savory note in the finish. Excellent complexity. Peak in 12-16 years. (94)

Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2014 – Vin Santo has been a staple with Ricasoli at Brolio for decades; the finest examples are in excellent condition after 25-35 years. A blend of 90% Malvasia, 5% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot; the wine was aged for nine years in small oak casks known as caratelli. Deep orange gold; aromas of caramel, toast and a hints of marzipan and scotch whisky. Full-bodied with very good acidity, notable harmony and significant typicity. The finish is a bit short, but otherwise, this is very impressive. Peak in 12-15 years. (93)